Under-cabinet lighting comes in two versions. Plug-in fixtures use an existing outlet and go in quickly. Hardwired fixtures run on their own switch with no cords showing, and take more labor. Both get quoted after a look at your cabinet runs, because local electricians do not publish a set price.
Hardwired or plug-in under-cabinet lights?
Hardwired is the cleaner result, while plug-in is the faster and cheaper way to get light on the counter. Your choice mostly depends on whether walls are already open.
| Choice | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Plug-in | Little or no wall work. Easy to replace | Uses a counter outlet, and a cord may show |
| Hardwired | No cords, wall switch or dimmer, looks built-in | Needs a power source and a route for cable |
| Hardwired during a remodel | Walls and backsplash are already open | Has to be planned before tile goes up |
Which under-cabinet fixture should you buy?
LED bars are the safe choice for most kitchens. LED tape suits long, continuous runs, and pucks suit spots. All three work, but they look different on a shiny counter.
- Bars. Rigid, simple, and linkable from one cabinet to the next.
- Tape. Thin and even, and needs a driver to power it. A channel with a diffuser hides the dots.
- Pucks. Cheap, but they make pools of light rather than an even wash, and polished granite will show every one.
Pick a color temperature that matches your ceiling lights. If you want dimming, buy fixtures and a dimmer that are rated to work together.
How does the wiring get hidden?
Through the wall behind the cabinets, or through the cabinets themselves. Here is the usual order on a hardwired job:
- Find power. The electrician looks for a suitable nearby circuit, or runs a new one.
- Plan the switch. A spot by the backsplash or at the room entrance.
- Route the cable. Holes in the back of cabinets or behind the wall, depending on what your cabinets allow.
- Connect runs across gaps. Sinks, windows and range hoods split the counter into sections, and each section needs a feed.
- Mount and test. The fixtures sit near the front of the cabinet, to light the counter and not your backsplash.
What changes the price of under-cabinet lighting?
The number of separate cabinet runs matters most. A straight wall of cabinets is one easy job. An L-shaped kitchen with a sink window and a range hood splits into separate sections, and each needs its own connection. Tile that has to be worked around, and new switch locations, add to it. Our typical price of $300–$950 describes three standard fixtures on existing boxes, so treat it as a sense of the visit and not as your number. The lighting cost guide has what's published.
Does it make sense to add other kitchen jobs?
Yes, and one trip is the cheapest way to get them done. While the electrician is in the kitchen, ask about any tired outlets and switches or a GFCI outlet that keeps tripping. Thinking bigger? Recessed lights pair well with counter lights.
How do I get under-cabinet lights quoted?
Pick Lighting and describe your kitchen: plug-in or hardwired, how many runs, and a photo of the counters. Book it in Orlando, Maitland, Apopka or anywhere else in our areas served. For anything else on the ceiling, start at lighting installation.
New wiring can mean a permit, depending on your city. See do I need an electrical permit?
Common questions
How much do under-cabinet lights cost to install in Orlando?
It gets quoted after a look, because the job turns on cabinet runs and how the power gets there, so have it quoted. See the lighting cost guide for nearby numbers.
Can I add under-cabinet lights without opening the wall?
Often yes, with plug-in fixtures and an existing counter outlet. The cord shows a little, or runs through the cabinet to an outlet inside. Going hardwired is the cleaner look, but usually means more work.
Can they run off the same switch as my ceiling lights?
Sometimes, but a separate switch or dimmer is usually more useful. You will want counter light at times when you do not want the whole room on.
